Interview with 2013 San Francisco Bay Area Rising Star Chef Duncan Holmes

May 2013

Katherine Sacks: How did you get interested in cooking?
Duncan Holmes: My mother has a bakery and catering business in Folsom. When she opened that almost 12 years ago she had me work as a dishwasher a little bit. Little by little she let me help out; carry things, cut things. Then I went away to college and got a degree in economics. In the third year of my economics schooling I had to get an internship in an economics field. I got a job at a restaurant in Berkeley instead. I started as a prep cook and moved to line cook and loved it. I went back and finished my degree and got a little job in Chico to carry me over. I graduated in 2009 and was still deciding what to do with the degree. I think I had my sights set on being an investment banker, but I loved food, that’s why I changed.

KS: How did you end up as chef de cuisine at Sons & Daughters?
DH: I came here from Saison. This restaurant had been open about 4 or 5 months. I had run into Matt [McNamara] and Teague [Moriarty] a couple times around the city and was looking to leave Saison. I was going to go to Manresa, but I came here as a line cook. I worked as line cook for 3 or 4 months and was promoted to sous chef. I was sous chef for 9 months and then moved to chef de cuisine a year ago. It wasn't something I had planned for. I was planning on being here for 4 months and going to Manresa, I had a job at Manresa, but then I stayed here.

KS: How would you describe your style?
DH: As a cook you are trying to take the style of every place you work. I was in Denmark and Sweden for 5 months prior to Saison. That style is completely different than Scandinavian style so yeah of course I took a lot of that.

KS: Where do you find inspiration?
DH: We really try to emphasize all the things in the garden. A lot of things you wouldn't think of, yarrow, sweet woodruff. I would say all the things we have locally here; San Francisco Bay fish year round, proteins and lamb in Sonoma and squab. We’re just creating flavorful nice dishes based on food available around us.

KS: Who would you say is your mentor?
DH: I would definitely say David Kinch as well as Thomas Keller. The style of Manresa and the precision and attention to detail that Thomas Keller demands.

KS: What is the hardest thing you’ve had to do in your career?
DH: I think when we made the switch from our previous menu, which was 7 courses, to this one which is 12. That took a lot, that was difficult, especially with a completely new staff.

KS: Where will we find you in 5 years?
DH: It’s hard to say. Normally in my life I would have a plan already, but I don't for the next five years. I will probably be here or Napa or New York, somewhere where this kind of food is thriving. I have this place here that I kind of feel that I can do anything I want, and there is still a lot to learn.