Interview with Chef Marco Canora of Hearth - New York, NY

StarChefs: Why did you start cooking? What or who inspired you to become a chef?
Marco Canora: I cooked as a child with my mom and aunt. My family’s from Luca. I grew up in the Hudson Valley. We had a huge garden. It gave me a huge advantage when I started cooking as a career. In high school I got a job in a restaurant washing dishes, then I moved up to pots, then garde manger.

SC: Did you attend culinary school? Why or why not? Would you recommend culinary school to aspiring chefs today?
MC: I didn’t go to culinary school. I went to business school. I’m not very impressed with culinary grads. A year stage produces better workers.

SC: Can you talk about your mentors?
MC: Fabio Picchi of Cibrao in Florence. He taught me the concept of deep, layered flavors. It’s not about foams and jelly; it’s about wholesome good food. Tom Collichio helped me learn to look at the business end of it.

SC: Are there any secret ingredients that you especially like? Why?
MC: Preserved lemon helps any dish: fish, meat. The ultimate condiment is a spicey olive oil—young and peppery. The kind that burns the back of your throat.

SC: What is your most indispensable kitchen tool? Why?
MC: A stainless steel food-mill. It’s the most universal tool.

SC: Is there a culinary technique that you have either created or use in an unusual way? Please describe.
MC: I put all my fish scraps through the food-mill and create an unbelievable fish puree that I use on my crudo plates. Also the use of soffrito in unusual ways.

SC: What is your favorite question to ask during an interview for a potential new line cook?
MC: I always do a trial where I access knife skills and fundamentals. Line cooks are tough to find.

SC: What tips would you offer young chefs just getting started?
MC: You better be prepared to work a lot: 70 hours a week. Realize it is about sacrifice. Saying no to friends and family. It’s a big commitment. Forget sports. There’s no time.

SC: What cities do you like for culinary travel?
MC: Tokyo. I’ve been there twice. They have a respect for their food that doesn’t exist anywhere else. They appreciate subtlety and quality. Also Florence. I love the freshness, the artisan producers.

SC: What are your favorite restaurants in New York?
MC: Al di La in Brooklyn. Café Boulud: there wasn’t a foam or micro-green on the plate. It was incredibly satisfying; what food should be. Bar Piti for their veal meatballs, bread soup.

SC: Where do you see yourself in 5 years? In 10 years?
MC: Dead! Burnt-out. This is a slippery stone. I’d like to have more restaurants. I love the excitement of creating new concepts, new restaurants.