Interview with Chef Noriaki Yasutake of Perry’s – Washington, D.C.

Tejal Rao: Why did you start cooking? What or who inspired you to become a chef?
Noriaki Yasutake: At age seven I made my first hand roll. My father was my hero; he was a sushi chef. I started working with him at eighteen, and at then at nineteen I moved to the US where I worked for my uncle at Matsuba in Bethesda, Maryland.

TR: Did you go to culinary school?
NY: No. I learned everything I know from hands-on experience.

TR: Who are you mentors? What are some of the most important things you’ve learned from them?
NY: My father was my first mentor. For over two years I worked with Haruo Obu at the Waldorf-Astoria who taught me basic Japanese cooking. Hiroshi Nakahara of Bond St. taught me how to create dishes and how to be innovative, and Chef Morou’s ideas and techniques inspire me.

TR: What is you philosophy on food and dining?
NY: I think about food all the time – my wife thinks I’m crazy. After work my team and I come together and brainstorm. We’re always coming up with new ideas and everyone’s ideas count.

TR: What flavor combinations do you favor?
NY: I like tuna and garlic chips. I’m also experimenting with white fish and ponzu sauce.

TR: What is your most indispensable kitchen tool? Why?
NY: For plating I use long metal chopsticks to manipulate delicate elements. I also use Nenox knives.

TR: Is there a culinary technique that you have either created or use in an unusual way? Please describe.
NY: I make a tempura batter with fish stock which gives it a strong fish flavor. I like tinkering with ideas and reorganizing old ideas.

TR: What is your favorite question to ask during an interview for a potential new line cook?
NY: Do you like cooking? Are you humble?

TR: What tips would you offer young chefs just getting started?
NY: Cook from the heart, not from the hand.

TR: What cities do you like for culinary travel?
NY: Everywhere in Spain and Europe!

TR: What are your favorite restaurants—off the beaten path—in your city?
NY: I’m crazy about Café Atlantico. Makoto Restaurant has a lunchbox special, grilled fish and mackerel. Sushi Taro has very good quality sushi. After work I go to Anangol Korean with my team.

TR: What trends do you see emerging in the restaurant industry now?
NY: I think chefs and diners are becoming more interested in strange or new condiments as an alternative to soy sauce. Powders, such as Cajun, curry or tea, are also big.

TR: Where do you see yourself in 5 years? In 10 years?
NY: I want my own place with a small open kitchen, tapas style.