Interview with Pastry Hichem Lahreche of Kinkead’s – Washington, D.C.

Tejal Rao: How did you begin your culinary career?
Hichem Lahreche: I studied physics in college and played tennis, but one day I dropped everything to be a pastry chef.

TR: What is your philosophy on pastry?
HL: I like a combination of salt, tenderness and crunchiness in pastry. I believe in tradition: passing recipes from generation to another and respecting a region’s culinary heritage.

TR: What restaurants that you have worked in as a pastry chef have been the most influential? Who are your mentors?
HL: Olivier Bajard is my hero. He brought the world together through pastry, interpreting culture through food, science and color. Laurent L’Huilier taught me the importance of consistency. He’s a perfectionist. Michel Richard taught me the passion of the profession and Bob Kinkead taught me the business.

TR: What was your Baking and Pastry training? Did you attend culinary school?
HL: Yes. Culinary school is a great experience, but I would also suggest apprenticeships at a young age, even before school.

TR: What pastry or kitchen tools can’t you live without? Why?
HL: My offset spatula and paring knife which I use to maneuver things sculpt and decorate.

TR: What are your favorite ingredients?
HL: I like chocolate with hazelnut in the winter and exotic fruits and citrus.

TR: What are your top three tips for dessert success?
HL: Timing is everything. You have to learn to be patient with pastry. Taste everything. Keep your workspace clean. Communicate.

TR: What is your favorite question to ask during an interview for a potential new line cook?
HL: Are you sure this is what you want to do? Because it’s going to be hard.

TR: What are your favorite cookbooks.
HL: Happy in the Kitchen, Michel Richard. He’s an artist, and an amazing chef. He can also switch from pastry to savory very successfully. Kinkead’s Cookbook is also a great resource.

TR: What are your favorite restaurants—off the beaten path—in your city? What is your favorite dish there?
HL: Bistro Du Coin, in DuPont Circle, has great moules frites and beer. I go to Pollo Rico for spicy chicken.

TR: What cuisine are you best known for?
HL: Modern French.

TR: What languages do you speak?
HL: French, Spanish, Arabic and English

TR: What are you favorite desserts to eat and to make?
HL: To eat, pralines and to make, pralines!

TR: What trends do you see emerging in pastry arts?
HL: A blurring of the sweet and savory distinction. I also see more creative use of salt, seasoned salts and better salts.

TR: Where do you see yourself in 5 years? 10 years?
HL: In my boutique pastry shop or creperie.