Bistro Voltaire: A Little Corner Of Chicago Where Parisian "joie De Vivre" Lives

Bistro Voltaire is a relative newcomer to the Chicago dining scene and yet it has become a favored destination for Chicagoans seeking the romantic, spirited vibe of a French bistro without leaving the Windy City. The food is classic and the ambiance is infused with a real Paris feel. "Most commonly, our guests say that entering Bistro Voltaire is like leaving Chicago and finding oneself in France," said owner Ned Boukram, a native of France. "We take this as a great compliment, for that is exactly what we've tried to do with our little restaurant. We think that a world-class city like Chicago needs a little corner where Paris lives-everyone loves Paris."

Not surprisingly, the first wave of devotees of Bistro Voltaire (226 W. Chicago Ave., Chicago; 312-265-0911) have been Europeans visiting Chicago and well-traveled Chicagoans who know Paris and are thrilled to find a place where they can relax et se r'galer (and have a great meal). But increasingly, the people who are frequenting Bistro Voltaire are Chicago foodies who want a change of pace from the fusion cuisine of most upscale restaurants and want to enjoy good traditional French food in its purer form because, quite simply, it is delicious and satisfying. In keeping with the bistro sensibility, the prices are very reasonable.

"There is a reason why classic French bistros are still very popular in France in spite of the influence of modern globalism," said Boukram. "There is a certain joie de vivre in a bistro and this is certainly true at Bistro Voltaire-the food and wine go together perfectly and the people feel free to eat hearty and converse with enthusiasm. There is a shared sense of community and spirit. We all have a good time together."

Entering Bistro Voltaire, one is struck by the authenticity of the straightforward French bistro atmosphere. This is no theme restaurant; it's a cozy and comfortable gathering spot that transports one to les rues des Paris. The color tones are traditional red, white and black and the restaurant is furnished with simple tables, banquettes and a nicely-sized bar. A wall mural with a large etching of Voltaire is the only whimsical touch, accompanied by Voltaire's famous quote: "Je m'arr'terais de mourir s'il me venait un bon mot ou une bonne id'e (I will stop my death if a good word or a good idea come to my mind).

The restaurant is very appealing to the bar crowd as well as those who desire a sit-down meal. People drop in after work so they can unwind with a great glass of wine and some robust French comfort food. "As the weather gets colder, we'll see more and more guests escaping the weather and sitting at the bar to enjoy a bowl of our wonderful Soupe a L'oignon gratinee with some house-made crusty bread and a glass of Bordeaux wine," said Boukram. "Marvelous!"

The new fall 2012 menu, which changes regularly with the season, offers an ample variety of classic French bistro dishes which run the gamut from light and refreshing to robust and comforting. At Bistro Voltaire, it is easy to compose a meal that suits one's appetit du jour.

First Courses offer a sampling of some the most beloved small plates in the French bistro tradition. Included are such dishes as the Oeuf en cocotte (sheered egg atop saut?ed mushrooms, cr'me fraiche, porcini truffle mousse), $9; photo left: Foie gras Parfait (foie gras mousse, sour cherry compote, toasted baguette), $14 ; Assiette de Charcuterie (house made pat', air dried sausage, cured ham, gherkins and grainy mustard), $14; Escargots de Bourgogne (braised escargots with garlic herb butter and puff pastry), $11; and Moules (saute'ed PEI Mussels, white wine, shallots, herbs), $12.

Salad selection include the Laitue au bleu (tender bibb lettuce, toasted pecans, crisp apples, fresh herbs, crumbled blue cheese, house vinaigre