Chef David Katz Opens M�m� In Philadelphia

David Katz always dreamed of having his own restaurant, and he always knew how he wanted it to be. It would be warm and hospitable, like the house he grew up in. It would have style, but still be as unpretentious as a favorite diner. And most important, it would feature the kind of food his Jewish-Moroccan grandmother (or M�m�, as they called her) would have approved of.

Now with the September opening of M�m� (pronounced MAY-may) in Philadelphia's Fitler Square, David's vision has become a reality. With only 40 seats, M�m� offers the feel of a good friend's dining room. In fact, you'll be able to watch the action in the kitchen, and the chef will personally cook for you. But then, everything about David Katz's first restaurant is a reflection of his personality. The rustic, bustling service with food that is straightforward, and uncompromising in quality. The seasonally-inspired menu, with its emphasis on new American cuisine, stresses simplicity, but every dish bears the signature of the master craftsman. "Approachable" is the way he describes it. It's based on his passion for blending flavors and textures "that make sense." And yet the results are unmistakably his own.

Take the way he combines heirloom tomatoes and seared ricotta salata into a piquant salad, served with hearty grilled bread and aged balsamic vinegar. The way his house-cured salmon is complemented by artichokes, lemon confit, and capers, and contrasted with herb creme fraiche. Cured foie gras tart with port soaked prunes. Or the way he pairs potato gnocchi with a spicy wild boar ragu. So simple, yet so far from ordinary.

Everything served in an atmosphere as inviting as you'd expect from David Katz. Think bistro chairs. Solid cherry wood tabletops. Blackboard menus. And walls covered with food photography by David's friend - who just happens to be one of Philadelphia's most interesting and best-known photographers.

It all adds up to a dream come true for David Katz. His M�m� would be proud.

M�m� is located at 2201 Spruce Street, Philadelphia PA; 215.735.4900; memerestaurant.com.