Interview with Chef Dennis Leary of Canteen - San Francisco

Antoinette Bruno: Why did you start cooking? What or who inspired you to become a chef?
Dennis Leary: When I was 16 years old I found that my advancement in the kitchen was more or less based on merit and work ethic, not looks or educational pedigree. Compared to high school, where I was sort of a misfit, the kitchen was a level playing field.

AB: What made you decide not to go to culinary school? Would you recommend culinary school to aspiring chefs today?
DL: After high school I went to a "normal" college where I was an English major. By age 20 I had learned the culinary basics – some butchery, sauces, food terms – so I didn't think it necessary. I would not recommend culinary school to anyone wanting to be a chef. I would recommend a year as a dishwasher. You'll probably learn more, save money and eat better. Plus you won't have a bunch of whiners to contend with.

AB: Who are your mentors?
DL: My chief mentors were Alain Rondelli, Drew Nieporent and Hubert Keller.

AB: What is your philosophy on food and dining?
DL: Purity, no affectation. Food is less important than the conversation that goes with it.

AB: Which chefs do you consider to be your peers?
DL: Other business owners such as Laurence Jossel of Chow and Park Chow; Chad Robertson and Elizabeth Pruitt of Tartine Bakery.

AB: What is your most indispensable kitchen tool? Why?
DL: Plastic bowl scrapers because they are versatile. They are good for handling chocolate, garlic, etc.

AB: Is there a culinary technique that you have either created or use in an unusual way?
DL: I tend to use older techniques - sealing pots with luting dough and cast iron cookery. I'm not particularly interested in new 'scientific' cookery.

AB: What is your favorite question to ask during an interview for a potential new line cook?
DL: How much pot do you smoke when you wake up? I usually end the interview if the answer is even remotely positive. I hate stoners.

AB: What tips would you offer young chefs just getting started?
DL: Outwork your peers, practice being polite, and learn Spanish.

AB: What are your favorite cookbooks?
DL: Charcuterie and French Pork Cookery by Jane Grigson, The Futurist Cookbook by Filippo Marinetti (though it's not a cookbook per se) and The Foods of France by Waverly Root.

AB: What cities do you like for culinary travel?
DL: New York and Paris.

AB: What are your favorite restaurants –off the beaten path – in San Francisco?
DL: Hons Wun Tun House (reminds me of Shanghai), La Bergerie, Francesci's Restaurant (It reminds me of old east coast beach places in Ipswich and the Jersey shore.)

AB: What trends do you see emerging in the restaurant industry now?
DL: I don't follow them, but probably more fast food, stupid diet restaurants (low carb).