Interview with Chef Katherine Clapner of Stephan Pyles - Dallas

Tejal Rao: When and why did you start cooking? What inspired you to pursue cooking professionally?
Katherine Clapner I originally set out on a career in PR and advertising. My friend was a caterer and enjoyed it more, so I dropped out of college and enrolled in the CIA in Hyde Park for baking and pastry.

TR: How did you get started as a pastry chef?
KC: I sent out 20 letters to the top hotels in Europe offering to work for room and board. I got 10 responses and landed a job at the Savoy Hotel in London in 1989. The Savoy sent me to The Windsor and it's been a series of lucky events, just being at the right place at the right time since then. Later I worked under chef Kevin Graham and The Grill Room of Windsor Court Hotel in New Orleans. Finding both of these jobs were great moments of luck. I’ve held Pastry Chef positions at Charlie Trotter's, Hotel Cipriani in Venice, Splendido in Portofino, and a lot of places around Dallas.

TR: Who are some of your mentors? What have you learned from them?
KC: Shane Gorring of Covington has a world of pastry knowledge and shared it with me. Stephan (Pyles) has really broadened my horizons and refined my style.

TR: What question gives you the most insight to a cook when you’re interviewing them for a position in your kitchen? What sort of answer are you looking for?
KC: Personality is my main concern. In a small kitchen, skills can be learned but personality can not.

TR: What advice would you offer young chefs just getting started?
KC: Take any and every opportunity to get into restaurants. Try as many desserts and dishes as you possibly can. You have to dine at a place before you can really commit to working there. Make sure you really look at a place before you get too deeply involved in it.

TR: Which chefs do you consider to be your peers?
KC: I want to eat at Craft because its simple but on the money. I really like what the chef at La Duni is doing as well.

TR: Is there any ingredient that you feel is particularly under appreciated or under utilized?
KC: I like to use Mahleeb seed which is like a cross between violets and marzipan. I like to use savory things like fennel pollen, white balsamic gel, and herbs that aren’t too sweet. You want the diner to leave the restaurant with a tiny sugar fix but there should be a good balance in a dessert.

TR: What are a few of your favorite flavor combinations?
KC: White corn and chocolate, rose water and cocoa nibs, orange flower water with agave syrup, and chestnut honey with layered citrus notes.

TR: What’s your most indispensable kitchen tool?
KC: My hands are really the best tool I have - that and Stephan's brain!

TR: What are your favorite cookbooks?
KC: The New International Confectioner Cookbook has every possible thing you could want or need. My mentor Shane introduced me to it. It really takes an old-school, gnarly approach to baking.

TR: Where would you like to go for culinary travel? Why?
KC: Spain or Peru to cook, eat, and learn.

TR: What languages do you speak?
KC: Spanish.

TR: What are your favorite restaurants-off the beaten path-in your city?
KC: York Street. Sharon is great and everything she puts out is absolutely fantastic. It could never be anything but perfect. Morgan at Bijoux is great, too.

TR: What trends do you see emerging in the restaurant industry now?
KC: Trends are a little contrived I think. Everyone sees the same Iron Chef and suddenly goes, “Oh Marshmallows! Must be the new hot thing!” I do see more crossing over and innovative cooking though, which is great.

TR: What is your pastry philosophy?
KC: Get the best ingredients. Don’t use a basic lemon when you can use something more interesting.

TR: Which person in history would you most like to have dinner with?
KC: I'd like to have family dinner with Edna Lewis!

TR: If you weren’t a pastry chef what do you think you’d be doing?
KC: I can’t even imagine. This is all I want to do.

TR: What does success mean for you? What will it look like for you?
KC: I want to keep doing what I'm doing and hopefully do it well!