Interview with Pastry Chef Tom Wellings of Maestro – Washington, D.C.

December 13

Antoinette Bruno: What year did you begin your culinary career?
Tom Wellings:Around 2001 I went to a community college and the New England Culinary Institute for a year, where I studied culinary arts not pastry. I started cooking at a seafood restaurant on Cape Cod.

AB: What is your philosophy on pastry?
TW: I like things clean and creative but also approachable. Seasonality is very important to me as are local farmers.

AB: What restaurants that you have worked in as a pastry chef have been the most influential?
TW: I decided I wanted to be a pastry chef at Hugo’s in Portland, Maine. I did garde mange and pastry there but I preferred the exactness of pastry. I thought I could be more creative in that environment. Sam Mason taught me to think outside of the box.

AB: What was your baking and pastry training? Did you attend culinary school?
TW: I received a pastry degree from the French Culinary Institute in 2004. Then I interned at Ilo with Patrick Coston and spent three months with Sam Mason at wd-50.

AB: What are the most important restaurants where you staged, apprenticed, or externed?
TW: wd-50

AB: What pastry of kitchen tools can’t you live without? Why?
TW: I love my immersion blender for pureeing small quantities and frothing up liquids. My offset spatula is indispensable for picking things up and smoothing them over – I’ve gone through lots of them.

AB: What are you favorite ingredients?
TW: I like spices, especially star anise, and any sensual fruit.

AB: What are you top three tips for dessert success?
TW: Think before you react, be precise and take the time.

AB: Who are your mentors/pastry heroes?
TW: Pierre Hermé’s technique is off the charts.

AB: What are the most notable restaurants you have worked at?
TW: Restaurant Eve and Hugo’s.

AB: What is your favorite question to ask during an interview for a potential new line cook?
TW: What cookbooks are you reading? What chefs do you admire? The answers give me insight regarding how they think and what their aspirations are.

AB: What are you favorite cookbooks?
TW: The first El Bulli, 1998-2002

AB: What are your favorite restaurants –off the beaten path—in your city? What is your favorite dish there?
TW: Rabieng has amazing Thai curry bison.

AB: What cuisine are you best known for?
TW: Modern American with experimentation but isn’t that where Modern American is going?

AB: Tell us an interesting or unknown fact about your kitchen and/or career?
TW: I’ve lived in fifteen places around the US.

AB: What are your favorite desserts?
TW: Ice cream, fruit sorbets, warm spice cake and panna cotta.

AB: What trends do you see emerging in pastry arts?
TW: I see more openness between chefs, purveyors and scientists. I also see more emphasis on minimalism and simplicity.

AB: Where do you see yourself in 5 years? 10 years?
TW: Owning my own place like a little gourmet shop with high-end produce, pastries and olive oils.