Maryland. More than a Blue Crab.

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    by Meha Desai, Sean Kenniff, Korakot Suriya-arporn, and Joe Sevier
    Will Blunt
    December 2014

    We spent our summer exploring the Chesapeake Bay region and Maryland—from Frederick out west to Hunts Valley and Hyattsville and onto the old and vital port of Baltimore. Neighborhood by neighborhood, we found a Charm City that has gentrified. But even though almost all the colorful row houses are renovated and the inner Harbor is now a major tourist destination, Baltimore has lost none if its character and grit. The spirit of the city—unpretentious, unafraid, eccentric—is in the people, and Mobtown chefs, somms, bartenders, butchers, roasters, chocolate makers, and even fermenters are no exception.

    We also found a renewed Chesapeake that is once again teeming with oysters, like the ones we had in Huntsville. From Baltimore to Hyattsville we sipped into the Bay State’s percolating coffee culture, as well. And in Towson we came upon modern, approachable fine dining. Turning westward, we visited an old favorite that never gets old, too, in the colonial crossroads town of Frederick.

    From the Artisans to myriad beverage professionals and the established chefs to the Rising Stars of the state, Maryland is at the core of the Mid Atlantic food industry, and the Chesapeake is its heart—alive and beating with bivalves! Here’s where to eat, drink, and stay.      

    EAT

    Hex Ferments

    529 East Belvedere Avenue
    Mid-Govans
    Baltimore, MD 21212
    (410) 775-5044
    Hours: Mon-Fri: 11am-7pm; Sat: 10am-8pm; Sun: 10am-5pm

    Fermenters Meghan and Shane Carpenter want to heal your guts. They're reviving ancient cultures and curating wild yeasts for some funky-delicious elixirs that are sure to satisfy your soul as well as your immune system. Sate all your craving for piquant sour-y goodness at Hex Ferments.

    Recommended:
  • Parsley Dandy: Green Tea, Cane Sugar, Parsley, Dandelion, and Honey
  • Sea Kraut: Green Cabbage, Gold Beets, Arame Seaweed, Hijiki Seaweed, Burdock, Ginger, and French Sea Salt

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    Parts & Labor

    2600 North Howard Street Suite 1100
    Baltimore, MD 21218
    (443) 873-8887
    www.partsandlaborbutchery.com
    Hours: Mon-Sun: 10am-7pm

    At Baltimore's Parts & Labor, 2014 Rising Star Chef George Marsh leads a whole animal butchery program that transforms pigs, beef, lamb, and all manner of locally sourced, pasture-raised livestock into superlative charctuerie. Part of Spike Gjerde's family of restaurants, Parts & Labor transforms each night from a butcher shop into a restaurant, where Marsh roasts supreme cuts in the brick hearth to fuel one of the Chesapeake’s finest carnivorous experiences.

    Recommended:
  • Full Butcher’s Board: N’duja, Copa, Pickled Ring Bologna, Lomo, Mortadella, Smoked Bore Snack Stick, Garlic Salami, Fennel Salami, Cajun-style Sausage, Chorizo, Pickled Cauliflower, and Pickled Kohlrabi
  • Blood Sausage, Fried Egg, Hearth Toast, Pepper Jam, and Grilled Oregano

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    Pure Chocolate by Jinji

    529 East Belvedere Avenue
    Baltimore, MD 21212
    (410) 937-8675
    www.jinjichocolate.com
    Hours: Mon-Thu: 10am-8pm; Fri-Sat: 10am-10pm; Sun: 10am-5pm

    Raw chocolate can be a tricky product, but it’s one Jinji Fraser has mastered. This holistic nutrition counselor turned chocolatier produces decadent treats that retain more nutrients than traditionally made chocolates. Everything in her Baltimore shop is made by hand, in small batches with zero refined sugars. Fraser's barks and truffles may be better for your body and more environmentally responsible than most confections, but once you taste the chocolate, it’s pure bliss.

    Recommended:
  • Peanut Butter Praline
  • Dark Chocolate-Blueberry Truffle and Peach Ganache

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    Ryleigh's Oyster

    36 East Cross Street
    Federal Hill
    Hunt Valley, MD 21230
    (410) 539-2093
    www.ryleighs.com
    Hours: Sun-Mon: 11am-12am; Tue-Wed: 11am-1am; Thu-Sat: 11am-2am

    Ryleigh’s Oyster in Hunt Valley continues to please shuck-and-slurp bivalve fanatics. Unlike its Federal Hill sister, the bar has a classic county pub vibe with a creative seafood-centric menu by Chef Patrick Morrow. Morrow’s sustainable “fish-to-tail” approach to food is reflected in his half-shell offerings, crab pretzels, and rockfish served over creamy grits.

    Recommended:
  • Crispy Maryland Soft-shell Crab, Pickled Cucumber Salad, and Buttermilk-Yogurt Horseradish Sauce
  • Scallop a la Plancha, Squash, Cream-less Creamed Corn Sauce, Nasturtium, and Tomatillo Sauce

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    Shoo-Fly Diner

    510 East Belvedere Avenue
    Baltimore, MD 21212
    (410) 464-9222
    www.shooflydiner.com
    Hours: Mon-Fri: 4pm-1am; Sat-Sun: 9am-3pm, 4pm-1am

    Shoo-fly is not your standard diner. At this Spike Gjerde establishment, Chef Opie Crooks—a name for a diner chef to be sure—serves farm-to-table fare that feels both homey and modern. It’s the kind of place you want to go to feel classy and comforted. With its local, sustainable ethos, everything they sourced is grown or raised in the area, right down to the citrus-free bar that gets creative with kombucha and tinctures for pops of acid.

    Recommended:
  • Fried Chicken Supper, Cornbread, and Pepper Gravy
  • Whey-braised Beef Short Rib, Potato au Gratin, Broccoli, and Pickled Onions

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    The Fork & Wrench

    2322 Boston Street
    Baltimore, MD 21224
    (443) 759-9360
    www.theforkandwrench.com
    Hours: Mon-Thu: 5pm-10pm; Fri-Sat: 5pm-11pm; Sun: 10am-10pm

    Self described, “Boutique Dive Bar”, The Fork & Wrench offers locally-sourced, globally-inspired fare, and feisty feminine cocktails—like the Boiler Room which features ice cubes made from stout—from Bartender Shana Leachman, and luscious, homey desserts by Pastry Chef Janae Aiken (we’re dying for another slice of her Gooey Butter Cake). It’s a place that feels at once like a cool, hip hangout for Baltimore’s scenesters, but also like the neighborhood joint down the street that you can bring your whole family to.

    Recommended:
  • Insalada Bianco - White Asparagus, Cauliflower, Sun Choke, Cippolini Onions, Pickled Beach Mushrooms, Sun Choke Mousse, Pine Nuts, Granny Smith Apples, Sicilian Olive Oil and Sea Salt
  • Gooey Butter Cake, Blackberry Ice Cream, Lemon Curd, Semolina Crust, and Macerated Blackberries
  • Shift Kicker: Bluecoat American Dry Gin, St. Germain, Peach Bitters, Club Soda, and Lime

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    VOLT

    228 North Market Street
    Frederick, MD 21701
    (301) 696-8658
    www.voltrestaurant.com
    Hours: Wed-Sat 12pm-10pm; Sun 11:30am-10pm

    An hour outside Baltimore, in Frederick, and within a magnificently preserved brick building that is Bryan Voltaggio's VOLT, The flavor never stops. That's because 2014 Rising Star Chef Graeme Ritchie doesn’t stop. For Ritchie, classic dishes are an invitation to jump into the deep-end and fashion a whole new world on his plates. He obsesses over details. Tweezer food gets redeemed, beatified, in his kitchen. Ritchie also has a natural penchant for taking concepts, as varied as Maryland summers or Japanese charcoal, and translating them for his diners, making for one of the most inspiring dining experiences in Maryland.

    Recommended:
  • White Asparagus, Coconut Milk, Our Bay, Dashi, and Sea Urchin paired with Pinot Noir, Domain Joseph Voillot, Les Fremiets, Volnay Premier Cru, Burgundy, France, 2009
  • Wagyu Beef Short Rib, Malt, Salsify, and Binchotan Hardwood paired with Red Bordeaux Blend, Insignia, Joseph Phelps, Napa Valley, California, U.S.A. 2006

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    Wit & Wisdom

    200 International Drive
    Inner Harbor
    Baltimore, MD 21202
    (410) 223-1456
    www.witandwisdomtavern.com
    Hours: Mon-Thu 7am-10pm; Fri-Sat 7am-2am; Sun 7am-10:30pm

    From Executive Chef Zack Mills's head to the plate, there are strokes of genius. He's at his dream job at Michael Mina's Wit & Wisdom, and it shows. Mills has created a progressive tavern menu at what is a sincerely Maryland restaurant—you know where you're eating with every bite. And 2014 Rising Star Sommelier Julie Dalton's curated list adds textures. If it's "crunchy or sizzles" then she's pairing with it. The modern-luxe space is filled with golden light and warm woods with views of the Inner Harbor as it stretches toward the edge of the Chesapeake Bay.

    Recommended:
  • Chilled English Pea Soup paired with Dogfish Head 90 Minute India Pale Ale
  • Chesapeake Bay Fluke Sashimi, Cucumber Ponzu, Sriracha Ice Cream, Pickled Onions, and Radishes paired with Cinsault Rosé, Château des Deux Rocs, Coteaux du Languedoc, France, 2013

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    Woodberry Kitchen

    2010 Clipper Park Road
    Baltimore, MD 21211
    (410) 464-8000
    www.woodberrykitchen.com/
    Hours: Mon-Thurs 5pm-10pm; Fri-Sat 5pm-11pm; Sun 10am-2pm, 5pm-9pm

    At this flagship Spike Gjerde restaurant—a Baltimore fine-dining landmark and Mid-Atlantic farm-to-table mecca—you're not invited to dinner. Rather, when at Gjerde's table, he will send you supper. From cold and hot small plates, to flatbreads, oysters, and even "Meatless Mondays," the food is familiar but always the best version of itself—like sitting at the family dinner of your dreams. The desserts by 2014 Rising Star Pastry Chef Sarah Malphrus are daringly simple, and that’s why we love and crave them. In a renovated redbrick building with soaring ceilings and welcoming archways, Woodberry is both a hip and homey place to eat in the neighborhood that gave it it's name.

    Recommended:
  • Peach-Blueberry Cobbler, Sweet Biscuit, and Goat's Milk Ice Cream
  • Buttermilk Sherbet, Oat Granola, Sorghum, and Fresh Peaches

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    DRINK

    Spro Coffee

    851 West 36th Street
    Baltimore, MD 21211
    (410) 243-1262
    www.sprocoffee.com
    Hours: Mon-Tue: 7am-6pm; Wed-Thu: 7am-7pm; Fri: 7am-10pm; Sat: 8am-10pm; Sun: 9am-6pm

    2014 Rising Star Artisan Jay Caragay is bringing cutting-edge coffee culture to Baltimore. He sources beans from multiple suppliers across the globe and employs a wide variety of brewing methods to bring out the best in whatever bean he’s working with. Caragay’s joes don’t just supply your morning jolt, they lure you away from a random street vendor's anonymous Styrofoam cup. And with his coffee bean aging program, a mug of Spro coffee is far ahead of its time.

    Recommended:
  • Caturra/Catuai/Typica Blend, Delmar & Fernando Guillen, 2007 Rancho San Francisco, Chiapas, Mexico
  • G4 Lekepipto, Natural Process, Ethiopia

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    Vigilante Coffee

    4327 Gallatin Street
    Hyattsville, MD 20781
    (240) 696-1841
    vigilantecoffee.com/
    Hours: Mon-Sat:7am-2pm; Closed Sunday

    This Third Wave cafe and roastery (there's also an online shop) is based in Hyattsville, Maryland, but Vigilante Coffee is consumed and coveted throughout the greater Washington, D.C. metro area. Christopher Vigilante’s passion for coffee grew among rows of coffee trees in Hawaii—where they grow year round. Stateside today, he does both hot and cold pour overs (both Japanese and Kyoto styles), Australian flat whites, and cappuccino, all from seasonal farm-direct beans meticulously sourced from Indonesia, Africa, and the Americas. Vigilante has beans, blends, and roasts for every palate.

    Recommended:
  • Japanese Cold-Brew
  • Las Mingas

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    STAY

    Inn at the Black Olive

    803 South Caroline Street
    Fells Point
    Baltimore, MD 21231
    (443) 681-6316
    www.innattheblackolive.com
    Rooms from $289 to $379

    After a supremely restful night in one of the comfortably modern rooms at the Inn at the Black Olive, head down to Agora Market in the hotel lobby for an invigorating breakfast. From warming Mediterranean-inspired platters to American favorites, they have your morning meal covered. Opt for Agora’s Classic Green Drink for an organic, superfood packed juice to jumpstart your day in Baltimore.


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