The Old Dominion is New Again: Eat, Drink, Stay in Virginia
by Meha Desai, Sean Kenniff, Korakot Suriya-arporn, and Joe Sevier
Will BluntDecember 2014
Richmond has been reinvented through restaurants. It’s a trend begun by the city’s chef-patriarch Dale Reitzer of Acacia back in 2004, and since then, has really picked up steam. And the reinvention doesn’t stop at capital city borders. From Charlottesville to Keswick, Arrington, Clifton, and Staunton, Virginia is forging a new identity for itself and chefs are at the forefront. The freedom of low rents (sometimes rent on restaurant space can be lower than on a home) plus a hungry public and industry professionals moving in with experience from some of the country’s best big city kitchens in toe, have combined to create an exciting, nescient food culture that’s different, and, well, sometimes weird—in the best possible way (read: Ian Boden’s Pretzel Gemelli in French’s mustard sauce at The Shack). Chefs are comin’ on down to Virginia and really delving into what they want to do and they’re using the bounty of the Chesapeake Watershed to do it—from oysters to hams.
Artisans are also flocking to the Old Dominion and changing the way people eat. There’s Sub Rosa bakery in Richmond, where heirloom grains are thoughtfully selected and milled in house. And Rock Barn in Arrington, where Butcher and Charcutier Benjamin Thompson’s revolutionary Porkshare program is showing people a new way to see and eat meat.
While outside the American South the rest of the country is obsessed with biscuits and fried chicken, chefs in Virginia aren’t resting on their laurels. They’re digging deeper and defining a new Southern cuisine, and making small towns and restaurants into dining destinations. Chefs here are reaching their potential and realizing their dreams, and then you get to eat. Here are the Virginia destinations to eat, drink, and stay.
EAT
EAT
2941 
2941 Fairview Park Drive
Falls Church, VA 22042
(703) 270-1500
www.2941.com
Hours: Mon-Fri 11:30am-2pm, 5pm-9:30pm; Sat 5pm-10pm
In the heart of Falls Church, 2010 Rising Star Chef Bertrand Chemel and Pastry Chef Caitlin Dysart infuse sweet and savory perfection into their contemporary American cuisine, along with surprise French and Mediterranean flavors sprinkled in. A transformative restaurant for the Northern Virginia dining scene, 2941 is full of old school charm without being stuffy and offers great views to match the meal.
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Brookville Restaurant
225 Main StreetCharlottesville, VA 22902
(434) 202-2791
www.brookvillerestaurant.com/
Hours: Tue-Thu: 11:30am-2:30pm, 5pm-9pm Fri: 5pm-10pm Sat: 11:30am-2:30pm, 5pm-10pm Sun: 11am-2pm
Right off Main Street in Charlottesville, Virginia, is Brookville Restaurant ,where Chef Harrison Keevil is taking farm-to-table comfort food to a whole new level. Inspired by seasonal ingredients all grown in Virginia, Keevil and his team are serving impeccably executed classics with some serious style.
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Dutch & Company
400 North 27th StreetChurch Hill
Richmond, VA 23223
(804) 643-8824
www.dutchandcompany.tumblr.com
Hours: Mon-Sat: 5pm-10pm
From their corner of the Church Hill historic district, 2014 Rising Star Chef duo Phillip Perrow and Caleb Shriver are cooking what they call "seasonal, regional, familiar, but different" food. They couldn't be more right. At their restaurant Dutch & Company, chicken and dumplings are spiced with pho broth and chile schmaltz, and chestnut cavatelli are dressed with nasturtium yogurt and studded with roasted persimmon. These disciples of Richmond fine-dining patriarch Dale Reitzer, are part of the city's restaurant revival. And with sunbeams pouring in from the street during the day and amber lighting flooding the modern bistro-esque dining room in the evening, Dutch & Company is a place for special days and everyday.
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Fossett's at Keswick Hall
701 Club DriveKeswick, VA 22947
(434) 979-3440
www.keswick.com/fossetts.aspx
Hours: Mon-Sat: 7am-11am, 6pm-9pm; Sunday: 11:30am-2pm, 6pm-9:30pm
Keswick Hall's award-winning restaurant, Fossett's, boasts spectacular panoramic views of the Blue Ridge Mountains and heaps of Old World charm. In the kitchen, Chef Aaron Cross is taking years of training and the best of Virginia produce to create seasonal menus that are as timeless and elegant as the space itself.
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Heritage
1627 West Main StreetThe Fan
Richmond, VA 23220
(804) 353-4060
www.heritagerva.com
Hours: Tue-Thu: 5pm-10pm; Fri-Sat: 5pm-11pm; Sun: 10:30am-2pm; Closed Monday
In a restored brick storefront, 2014 Rising Star Chef Joe Sparatta is helping Richmond earn its due in the culinary limelight. From house-made charcuterie to fresh pasta, Sparatta’s dishes are as vibrant and colorful as the diverse traditions that inspire him. With co-owner (and brother-in-law) Mattias Hägglund running a stellar cocktail program, Heritage is a must for locals and visitors alike.
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Rappahannock
320 East Grace StreetDowntown
Richmond, VA 23219
(804) 545-0565
www.rroysters.com
Hours: Tue-Thu: 11:30am-10pm; Fri: 11:30am-11pm; Sat: 3pm-11pm; Sun: 3pm-10pm
In the heart of Downtown Richmond, Rappahannock brings together cousins Ryan and Travis Croxton’s dedication to great oysters and sustainability with the cunning and original menu of Chef Dylan Fultineer. Rappahannock also offers a phenomenal collection of craft beers, along with a raw bar that focuses on oysters from its own oyster farm just an hour away in Topping, Virginia.
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Saison
23 West Marshall StreetJackson Ward
Richmond, VA 23220
(804) 269-3689
www.saisonrva.com
Hours: Mon-Sun: 5pm-2am
Inspired by Chef Adam Hall and Co-owner Jay Bayer’s Southern roots and travels in Central America, Saison is all about classic technique, authentic ingredients, and honest, personal cooking. The vibe is funky and fun, just like the beer and cocktail menu. And whatever you do, don’t leave without tasting Pastry Chef Thomas Owen’s interpretations of the classic American desserts.
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Sub Rosa Bakery
620 North 25th StreetChurch Hill
Richmond, VA 23223
(804) 788-7672
www.subrosabakery.com
Hours: Tue-Fri: 7am-6pm; Sat-Sun: 8:30am-5:00pm
Brother and sister team Evrim and Evin Dogu are creating bread culture where there is none—in Richmond, Virginia. At their Sub Rosa Bakery, the duo works directly with farmers to grow heirloom varieties of wheat, rye, and corn, which are then stone milled in-house and incorporated into the shop’s breads and pastries. Stop in for breakfast, stay until lunch, and move right on into pizza night—you can never get enough of Sub Rosa.
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The Clifton Restaurant
1296 Clifton Inn DriveCharlottesville, VA 22911
(434) 971-1800
www.clifton-inn.com/dining
Hours: Mon-Sun: 6pm–9pm
Chef Tucker Yoder of The Clifton Inn offers a hyper local, super fresh menu at this luxurious eatery located within the Relais & Châteaux hotel. The dining room is dressed in hardwood and chandeliers, the wine cellar is bursting, and the chef’s table is intimate. At this elegant retreat, Yoder nourishes with modern, sophisticated fare and Mediterranean flourishes.
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The Dining Room at Berkeley Hotel
1200 East Cary StreetDowntown
Richmond, VA 23219
(804) 225-5105
www.berkeleyhotel.com/eathere.html
Hours: Mon-Fri: 7am-10:30am, 11:30am-2pm; Tue-Sat: 5:30pm-10pm; Sat-Sun: 7:30am-2pm
At The Dining Room at Berkeley Hotel, Chef Ken Wall does double-duty as its food and beverage program director, and he brings his personalized Southern touch to the quintessential modern American fare. You'll never go wrong with their signature fried green tomatoes with bacon jam and lump crab cakes. Be sure to sit at one of The Dining Room's cozy tables on the balcony, or the window seat with inviting views of Shockoe Slip, the brick-lined historic district.
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The Magpie
1301 West Leigh StreetCarver
Richmond, VA 23220
(804) 269-0023
www.themagpierva.com
Hours: Mon-Thu: 5pm-10pm; Fri-Sat: 5pm-10:30pm; Sun: 10:30am-2:30pm
For a kitschy, cool place with surprising, fun, and delicious food and an easy vibe, look no further than The Magpie. In the heart of Richmond’s historic Carver neighborhood, Chef Owen Lane’s gastropub is all about keeping it local. Behind the bar, you’re spoiled for choice with a wide variety of local brews on tap, and in the kitchen, Lane concocts dishes like crispy pig head with kimchi mayo and beef tongue Bolognese—yes, please!
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The Rock Barn
2387 Oak Ridge RoadArrington, VA 22922
(434) 263-4222
www.therockbarn.com
Hours: Tue-Fri: 9am-4pm
In Arrington, Virginia, 2014 Rising Star Artisan Benjamin Thompson is creating a whole new meat culture. The Rock Barn works with local farmer co-ops to raise hogs and animals for their USDA-certified whole butchery and charcuterie programs. Thompson sells fresh, smoked, and prepared meats to local restaurants, at farmers market, at their retail shop, and through their paradigm-shifting Porkshare program, a CSA for pig meat.
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The Roosevelt
623 North 25th StreetChurch Hill
Richmond, VA 23223
(804) 658-1935
www.rooseveltrva.com
Hours: Mon-Thu: 5pm-10pm; Fri-Sat: 5pm-11pm; Sun: 10:30am-2pm
From his corner in revitalized Church Hill, Richmond, Rising Star Chef Lee Gregory is cooking brilliantly executed, creative food. From steak tartare to smoked bluefish salad, everything he does is refined, balanced, and clean Southern living. Behind the bar, Thomas Leggett oversees all things booze, and, together, they’re making The Roosevelt the very heart beat of the city. With original wood paneling, ceilings, and fire place in the spacious dining room, the heart of the city is warm and bright.
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The Shack
105 South Coalter StreetStaunton, VA 24401
(540) 490-1961
www.theshackva.com
Hours: Wed-Sat: 5pm-9pm
At his casual, 26-seat restaurant in tiny Staunton, 2014 Rising Star Chef Ian Boden cooks with rip-roaring originality, walloping guests with flavor, bite after addictive bite. Some dishes you have to taste to believe—think pretzel gemelli in French’s mustard sauce. Though it’s off the beaten path, a meal at The Shack is one of the best meals to be had in the entire state and absolutely worth the trip.
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Trummer's on Main
7134 Main StreetClifton, VA 20124
(703) 266-1623
www.trummersonmain.com
Hours: Tues-Sat 5pm-10pm; Sun 11:30am-2:30pm
At Trummer’s on Main, 2014 Rising Star Chef Austin Fausett combines his years of experience and creative zeal to introduce guests to innovative American cuisine. The restaurant not only has an outstanding cocktail program led by Rising Star Bartender Stefan Trummer, but also boasts one of the largest wine cellars in the Mid-Atlantic, managed by Sommelier Diana Roderique. From historic Clifton, Virginia, Trummer’s on Main offers one of the region’s most vibrant and refined dining experiences.
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DRINK
Beltway Brewing Company
22620 Davis Drive #110Sterling, VA 20164
(571) 989-2739
www.beltwaybrewco.com
Hours: Thu - Fri: 4:pm-9pm; Sat: 1pm-9pm
Brewer Sten Sellier originally set out to open his own branded brewery. But during the planning process, he saw the large volume of gypsy and contract brewers opening up all over the country and soon shifted his business plan. Beltway serves as the brewhouse for several national brands and helps others meet demand with its state-of-the-art, 30-barrel brewhouse. The brewery is a great location to come hang out and try some focused house brews and recipes from other growing breweries from across the country.
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Port City Brewing Company
3950 Wheeler AvenueAlexandria, VA 22304
(703) 797-2739
www.portcitybrewing.com
Hours: Mon, Wed, Thu: 4pm-9pm; Fri: 3pm-10pm; Sat: 12pm-9pm; Sun: 12pm-6pm
Owner Bill Butcher and Head Brewer Jonathan Reid set out with the ambitious goal of being the best brewery in the D.C. area. With an obsessive focus on quality in every aspect of the brewing process, they pump out some of the best to style beers we've had. With their rapidly growing distribution network, soon you won't have to travel to DC to try it yourself.
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Swing's Coffee
501 East Monroe AvenueAlexandria, VA 22301
(703) 370-5050
www.swingscoffee.com
Hours: Mon-Fri: 7:30am-3:30pm; Sat: 8am-2pm
A part of D.C. coffee culture for almost a century, Swing’s Coffee roasts ethically sourced coffees with an artisanal approach. They take pride in their mastery of coffee knowledge and the art of making a darn good cup. As a roastery and a coffee shop, Swing’s believes in connecting the dots between producers, roasters, customers, and the community. And each cup shares a bean-to-piping-hot-cup journey.
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STAY
Berkeley Hotel
1200 East Cary StreetShockoe Slip
Richmond, VA 23219
(804) 780-1300
www.berkeleyhotel.com
Rooms from $127 to $170
Simply put, the Berkeley is elegant, and you’ll feel elegant staying there. Located in historic downtown Richmond, Virginia, it’s the ideal location for enjoying all the great restaurants, shops, and sites the Southern capital has to offer—one of those being the hotel’s own The Dining Room where chef Ken Wall mixes fine dining with regional favorites in his casually sophisticated restaurant.
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The Clifton Inn
1296 Clifton Inn DriveCharlottesville, VA 22911
(434) 971-1800
www.cliftoninn.net
Rooms from $179 to $249
With just seventeen distinctive rooms and suites, and its superior service, it’s no wonder The Clifton Inn is a member of Relais & Châteaux. Staying in this eighteenth century, 100-acre estate, settled at the base of the Blue Ridge Mountains, will transport you to the era of bustles and breeches. Yet, with modern amenities and world-class cuisine you’ll feel pampered, and decidedly in the contemporary South.
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Related Links
- D.C. Is for Dining Capital: Where to Eat, Sleep, and Stay
- Maryland. More than a Blue Crab.
- Virginia Is for Chefs
- 2014 StarChefs.com Washington, D.C. Area Rising Stars
- The Pretzel's New Twist
- A Renewed Brackish Bounty in the Chesapeake
- Kickin' It with Deep Fried Tomatoes
- This Whole Hog Went to Market
- The Shifting Food Worlds of DC and Virginia
